Updated: Jul 16, 2020
The following instructions will take you through creating the Back Base Template draft step by step as you did for the Front draft.
The Back Base Template can be drawn on the same sheet of paper as the Front if the paper is large enough, and the Lower Hip line can be drawn in line with the Front Lower Hip Line but not all guide lines are going to line up with the front once it is drawn mainly because the front has extra Darts taking up space on the paper.
Drafting Below the Waist
Draw a line parallel to the right edge of the paper lengthways approximately 1- 2 inches from the edge. Or start a new sheet of paper to do this if you prefer.
I simply line up my ruler with the edge of the paper and draw down the other side, shift the ruler up and complete the line.
This line is going to be the Centre Back so label it somewhere in the middle.
Set the paper portrait so that the line drawn is on your right.
At the bottom draw another line perpendicular and squared off from this Centre Back line a couple of inches away from the bottom of the paper. Again I line up my ruler with the bottom edge of the paper and draw down the other side along the length of the ruler.
If you are drawing the Back draft on the same piece of paper as the Front then this line may have already been drawn out.
This line is going to be the Lower Hip line so label it.
Check the measurement of the Back Lower Hip from the calculations table then measure this out from the Centre Back and mark the measurement.
This side of the diagram is going to be the Side of the pattern so label this side as the ‘Side’. Write down the measured amount next to the lines label.
Find the measurement for the Lower Hip Depth.
Measure up from the Lower Hip Line along the Centre Back Line and mark this measurement on the Centre Back Line.
Draw a perpendicular line at this mark squared off from the Centre Back Line, draw it a couple of inches longer than the Back Waist measurement actually is.
Label this line as the Waist and write down the Back Waist measurement and the Back Waist Dart width and also write down the amount for Centre Back shaping which is 3/8”, the same as the Waist shaping next to it, obviously you can change this amount if required, this may change anyway during fitting the Test Garment.
Calculate Back Waist + Waist Dart + Waist Shaping (3/8”).
If the Back Waist Dart works out to be < or = 0 then use ¼” for the Waist Dart.
Always consider using a Waist Dart as it is going to break up the pattern and allow you more flexibility in shaping/fitting and creating a Princess line seam.
Measure this amount along the Waist Line from Centre Back and make a mark on the Waist Line at this point.
Mark the Waist shaping amount 3/8” from the Centre Back on the Waist Line.
Then from this point