Updated: Jul 17, 2020
In order to draft a Skirt you will need to have taken your Clients Measurements and filled out the Skirt Measurements sheet. Keep in mind that you will already have some of these measurements taken earlier on the Bodice Measurements sheet, you can simply transpose these measurements from the Bodice Measurements sheet (they are marked with an *).
You will then need to fill out the calculations in column 2.
Then work out the Dart information in column 3.
It is a little tricky as you can’t really use a calculator as you are dealing with inches, but use your ruler to help and don’t worry about any stray 1/16”, round them down if this helps.
The calculations need to be read very carefully – if you need to confirm how the calculations are worked out use the Sample Measurements Sheet and work through that as an example.
The following draft information is taken from the Sample so that you can see what it would look like and you could practice using these figures to start with if you would like to.
Instructions for creating a Skirt for Stretch to fit fabrics is also included at the end of this Unit.
Drafting the Skirt Working Template
Unlike for the Bodice you don’t use a Base Template for the Skirt you go straight into drafting a Skirt Working Template.
The process other than that is really the same as before, draft the Working Template, True up the draft, create a cutting copy, create a Test Garment, fit the Test Garment, and make alterations on the draft. Then if you wish you can Preserve the Skirt Working Template.
At that point you will have a fitted Skirt Working Template. From that you can make your Flexible Patterns changing the style of skirt, and length etc. and add in your other design features such as further Darts, Closures, Pockets, Pleats, Gathers, and Splits etc.
A word about ease - The calculations in column 2 on the Measurements Sheet have taken care of the wearing ease initially as you can’t put in too much otherwise the Skirt would just fall down. It will become clear when creating a Test Garment if you have allowed enough ease for your garment, remember to get the Client to sit down in the Test Garment and walk to ensure it has enough wearing ease. Therefore initially it is recommended to create the Test Garment with around 1” for Seam Allowance to give you room to accommodate any alterations in fitting.
Given this information then it is usual to only have one Skirt Working Template.
You should really create a Skirt Working Template if you are making a Skirt as it is drawn slightly differently to an extended skirt off a Bodice and the Darts on the Front Draft are further around the body, i.e. less central.
To start with you need to create a frame to work in otherwise known as a ‘Block’.
On a clean sheet of paper draw 2 rectangles adjacent to each other. The first rectangle will be the Front Draft and the second will be the Back Draft and we are drafting half a Front and half a Back as usual. (If you have a client with an asymmetrical body you will need to discuss how you will progress this as you may need to draft a full Front and Back to meet their requirements).
The rectangles will be 20” in length, which is an approximate length from Waist to Knee to give you a starting point. Later you can reduce or extend the length as desired when drafting the Flexible Pattern. This measurement is your choice for now really.
The width of the rectangles are the widest part of the body which is usually the Lower Hip measurement so use your measurements off your measurements sheets. I am using 10 2/8” for the Front and 9 ½” for the Back off the Sample Measurements Sheet.
I am using measurements off the Sample Measurements Sheets for this instruction.
Take your time drawing the Frame out ensuring that you square off all of your lines. Also use your pencil to do this, I have drawn in red pen so that you can see the Frame clearly in the photos.
Label the Front and the Back.
Next draw in the lines for the Hip Bone Line and the Lower Hip Bone using the Depth measurements from the Waist, i.e. Hip Bone Depth and Lower Hip Bone Depth and label the lines. Draw them on the Front and the Back and ensure that your lines are squared off from the Waist.
Orientate yourself by labelling the Waist Line at the top and the Base Line at the bottom.