Updated: Jul 16, 2020
For all the draping Units you will need your customised Body Form. This will get you as close as you can during this stage to a near perfect fit, creating a Test Garment before making it out of the fashion fabric will get you closer to the desired fit and this really is essential so don’t be tempted to skip the Test Garment step. You know this really makes you focus on the clothes that you really need and are going to make time and time again, you are not going to go to this trouble often for patterns you are only going to use once unless they are for a special occasion.
Of course if you prefer to simply practice you can use any Body Form or even a mini scaled down version.
Fabric Positioning Approach
As mentioned previously I call this approach ‘Positioning’. It is simply where you are placing fabric into shapes defined on the bodyform to get a good fit or for style lines in the design.
Remember that you already have some key lines defined on your Body Form if you made it in the same way as the Project shown in the ThreadBox.
The process is to define your design and determine where all Seamlines (functional or otherwise) are on the design. These Seam/Stylelines are then marked on the Body Form using draping tape or some other method of marking. The fabric is then cut down to manageable sizes pieces, marked with the Grainline and a starting anchor pin point and then positioned over one of the pattern shapes and draped and smoothed and pinned in place. The outline of the pattern shape is then marked onto the fabric and any excess fabric is cut away so that the next pattern shape can be positioned and pinned in place in the same way. This process of positioning and pinning the fabric continues until all pattern pieces have fabric positioned in place. Sometimes pieces can be very small such as in the case in some corsets, as more seams gives more opportunity for a more perfect fit.
Once all the fabric pieces are positioned and outlines have been marked and all other design features are marked such as necessary darts then the pieces will are trued which can either be done directly on the fabric or the pattern is traced off the fabric onto paper. Some more couture processes of dressmaking never see a paper pattern and the muslin is used as the pattern, fabric after all does have more longevity than a paper pattern. If set seam allowances are being used then these are marked, the pattern is finalised and a Test Garment is made and fitted to the actual body as usual.
This unit will look at the following examples to demonstrate this idea of a Positioning Approach to fabric draping;
A Basic Bodice - designed for a fitted top/dress/gown, with a Round Neckline and style line for a Sheer Yoke Panel.
A Corset Bodice – more complex draping with more pieces to create a Stylised Corset top.
A Strapless Dress – looking at extending shapes down from the bodice to create a skirt section.
This simple example with larger pattern pieces will enable you to practice this process to grasp the concept of Positioning quite quickly.
This design is based on the Illusion designed bodice taken from the Auxiliary Reference Downloadable Style Sheet. In Front it has been drawn with a French Dart from the lower side and a Style Seamline across the Bust to allow for a sheer fabric to be used as a design or contrast feature fabric up to the Neckline as a Yoke. Although not shown in the drawing we are going to use this same Yoke in the Back. We will also add a Centre Back Seam to allow for a fastening option to be added such as a Zip, due to the high neckline we need to do this to allow access into the garment. There will be waist darts to create the tailored fitting required. We will use a straight Grainline for the garment.
Of course then this design will need to be extended down into a skirt by either draping and patterning the skirt in the same way or 2D pattern drafting once the pattern is made. A skirt is not demonstrated in this sample as its just meant to be a simple exercise in learning a technique.
The final pattern will consist of the following pieces;
The Front Upper, pattern marked as ‘Cut x 1 on the Fold’
The Front Lower, pattern marked as ‘Cut x 1 on the Fold’
The Back Lower, pattern marked as ‘Cut x 2’
The Back Upper, pattern marked as ‘Cut x 2’
A decision would need to be made outside of this exercise about finishing the neckline with either Binding, Facing or Lining and these pieces would be drafted more accurately using 2D pattern drafting once the Bodice Pattern is completed and trued.
We are going to focus on the 4 main pattern pieces to demonstrate the approach of Positioning.
To do this we are only going to work on half of the Body Form, half of the Front and half of the Back as we would with pattern drafting.
Before you start any draping print out a blank Pattern Record Card, you may wish to jot down things as you go and it will help you remember to check things for the Test Garment and to keep track of your pattern pieces. You could plan out the pieces before you even start to give you a tick list.
Marking the Body Form
You will need your Body Form and your draping tape and scissors.
It does not really matter which side of your Body Form you work on but if you prefer all of your patterns to be the same side as the Base Template then work on the left side of your Body Form. Just to show it does not matter the following draping has been done on the right side.
One piece at a time cut the draping tape and place the tape on the Body Form in the correct position for the Outline and the Seamlines and Style Lines. If the tape is not sticky enough you can anchor it further with pins.
This is when you realise the benefits of taking the time to stitch seams for your Guidelines on your Base Template cover for your Body Form as you can simply tape along these lines.
Although not used in the design a piece of tape is added to the Centre Front, this is going to ensure an accurate Grainline is kept and shows the On Fold line for the Centre Front. You do have a Guideline in Centre front so this is not necessary, I just wanted to start by pointing out the obvious!
Start it at the desired Neckline Depth at Centre Front and end it at the Waist.