Updated: Sep 13, 2018
DESIGN NAME –Tulip Party Dress
DESIGNED BY - Amanda Goldsmith
SAMPLE SIZE – Approx. size 10
SKILL LEVEL – Brave Beginner to Intermediate and Advanced
SUGGESTED FABRICS –
Fashion Fabric – A nice crisp Cotton or linen or wool blend medium weight. Approx. 2m. required. This sample was made using a silk/wool blend.
A lining fabric was used in this sample to hide the internal seams and finish off the Neckline and Armholes. Approx. 2m. required. This sample was made using a fine silk such as a china silk although you could use a heavier silk lining. If you are not lining you will need to either bind the Neckline or Armholes or draft a Facing to finish off the seams, unless you are leaving raw seams which can look nice if you have chosen a looser woven wool fabric.
An underlining is used in this sample to bring out the essence of the fabric and to assist with hand sewn finishing. It is highly recommended to use an underlining for this dress and sewing technique. This sample was made using a silk organza but you could use a cotton for a more weighted result, get some advice from your fabric store when you purchase your fashion fabric for their ideas on underlining. Approx. 2m. required.
If you are in any doubt regarding quantity of fabric as fabric can come in so many different widths then take in your completed pattern pieces to your supplier.
As a guide there are quite a few small pattern pieces for this dress and very generous seam allowances so this dress will use between 1.5 and 2m of fabric for average sizes (between 10 – 14 size).
OTHER NOTIONS – Apart from the usual sewing requirements such as sewing machine, needles and thread/basting thread, scissors, drafting tools, tailors wax and tracing tool etc. the following are required; Zip optional to put in the back around 12”, Silk organza selvages, or a cotton binding for stays in the seams, Pinking shears are a useful addition to your toolset,
Beeswax for thread preparation - optional.
DESIGN NOTES – This is a tailored form fitting dress to mid-thigh or just above the knee with a pencil skirt and back split. It has a mid-depth square neckline on both the front and the back with straps. The design shows style lines with Princess seams both front and back. It also has a waist band and an option of a style line across the shoulder/chest (not used in this sample).
The dress is fully lined and has an invisible zip in the back.
From these photos you can see how nicely the Princess seams show the shape of the body in the silk as the shine on the silk switches across the seams in the light.
This fabric is beautiful to work with but is not very forgiving so work very slowly with it for the best results.
Here is the Back.
The prerequisites for working through this ‘Sew Along’ are that you have worked through the following Modules and Units;
Created a Test Garment for the Base/Working Templates (with a 2” wearing ease) done a fitting and altered the Master Templates accordingly.
Auxiliary Reference Information - Draft – Closures, to understand how to draft a zip onto your Flexible Pattern if you are going to insert an invisible zip in the back.
Reviewed the Auxiliary Reference Information if required for; manipulating darts, drafting a Hem and adding on Seam Allowances (optional), Sewing Seams and also using an iron.
As a couture finished garment can mean lots of hand stitching then it is recommended that you have reviewed the following document - Auxiliary Reference Information - Sewing - Different Stitch Types and practiced a Running stitch, a Flat Fell stitch, a French Tack (optional for bra strap fastening), Herringbone or Catch stitch, Stay stitching, Thread Tracing.
An estimate of time to allow for each stage is 1 – 2 days to draft the patterns and create Test Garments, 1 – 2 days to pre-treat the fabric and cut out the pieces and preparation, 2 - 6 days for sewing at least. Although everything could be done within a week it would be a long slog so just take your time with each stage and it will take as long as it has to. Obviously the timeframe is down to each person, experience and daily life.
Remember to post pictures of your final garment!
Have a look at this overview process for creating a garment, it is very straight forward and logical and will hopefully you can now see how everything flows and pulls together from what you have learned so far.