Updated: Jul 16, 2020
At this point it is a good idea if you have not done so already to make some notes on your Pattern Record Card regarding your order of construction for your garment, especially useful if you plan to make this again in the future. By doing this you will be running through in your mind how you want the final detail to look and what is the best order to do this in, by doing this you are less likely to forget something. You can find my completed Pattern Record Card on the Downloads Page which you might want to use as a starting point.
With all pieces of fashion fabric cut out the construction is very straight forward.
At this point you have your pattern referenced on the silk organza underlining, however this is not projected to the anterior side of the fabric so a little thread tracing is in order. We did thread tracing on the Test Garment by machine but the fashoin fabric needs to be treated with a little more finese so this is going to be done using a running stitch by hand. This will all be removed later in the process so you don’t need to use knots or back stitch. The size of the stitches are really personal choice and to some extent are stipulated by the fabric that you are using.
The thread tracing should be done around each piece on each sewing line don’t worry about the notches you can see them marked on the silk organza and this will be sufficient, its better not to make too many unnecessary holes in the fabric for these.
You can see here that I have started thread tracing on this piece but I have also thread traced the hem fold simply because I did not cut my organza long engouh and I want to hold this in place, it will also position my tacking line for this hem fold at a later date.
Here is the Front Skirt Panel and Bodice side panel thread traced to have a look at.
Once all pieces have been thread traced then everything can be tacked and joined together ready for a final fitting.
The thread tracing will help this go along much faster as you will be able to join the pieces better by touch, it really helps with the pinning and tacking.
Starting with the skirt panels pin them together joining notches and then tack the pieces together using a smaller stitch than the thread tracing as this will need to hold the pieces together during the fitting. I use a different colour this time a red thread to match the fabric then if I decide not to pull it out it will be fine to leave in there.
Here you can see one sewn pinned in the foreground and behind that another seam already tacked using red thread.
Here is a photo of the skirt panels all tacked together with the huge and wonderful seam allowances spilling out which will be left in place until after the fitting, just in case any of this fabric is needed, which in this case it really was even after doing the Test Garments to get a more perfect fit using this fabric.
…….and just because I really like this photo here is a photo of the other side!
For the final fitting on this dress I fitted the skirt and the bodice seperately and the waist panel would come along for the ride with whatever decisions were made I did not join the waist panel to the bodice or the skirt.
The client and I both agreed to add in a little extra from the generous seam allowances on both the bodice, waist panel and skirt for a little more comfort and to allow for sitting to increase the side seam by 3/8” and the centre back by just over 1/4”. But be careful with this assessment, don’t forget that you have lots of seam allowance sitting inside taking up lots of space especially if you are using a thicker fabric. As for the rest I determined that I was really happy with the fit even though it is a little tricky with all the seam allowances all over the place. If you are in any doubt and feel it necessary and that you wont jeopardise the fit then trim the seam allowances down a little if you want to get a more accurate picture.
Here you can see the front skirt which will look a little unpressed at this stage but you are starting to see it all come together now.