Updated: Apr 25
Bindings are a way to attach fabric to a raw edge to neaten it and finish it off and the Auxiliary Reference Information - Draft - Bindings, Facings, Linings Unit reviewed how to create a Binding strip, we will focus on the sewing aspect in this Unit.
Once you have your bias or straight strips prepared for your Bindings there are a number of ways in which you can attach it onto the fabric edge which give you a slightly different result. Here are some comparable options.
These two photos show 4 different methods for attaching the bindings depending on the final results you are looking for. The top photos show the anterior side and the bottom photos show the posterior sides of the same method.
The first two samples show Binding that you cannot see from the anterior side and the last two samples show binding that you can see from the both sides.
These samples were made from scrap fabric and out of contrasting fabric to make it easier to see where you can see the bindings. A straight binding is shown here which could be used on Seams, pockets or a garment Base. You would use the same application (with a bias binding) to attach a Binding around the curves of a Neckline or Armhole although with a bias binding you can stretch it very slightly when sewing which can help it curve around a Neckline or Armhole. It is recommended to test how much stretch you would need on a scrap piece of fabric as you want to end up with a flat Binding and garment and not create any puckering.
Before attaching you could also consider if you want to add a thin strip of iron on interfacing to the area above the Sewing Line into the Seam Allowance to support all of the stitching.
All bindings will use a ¼” garment Seam Allowance except Method 4 where the binding wraps over the edge of the garment on the sewing line, so this is the only application where you would remove any Seam Allowance from the main pattern piece.
Bound with no Visible Binding
This Binding can’t be seen from the anterior side of the garment the only thing that you can see is a stitching line on either method.
There are two ways to create this application, it can be done single or double thickness depending on your requirements for support and fabric thickness.
This Binding is attached on the anterior side and turned and folded onto the posterior side and secured down. You only see a line of stitching on the anterior side. This is not the strongest way to do binding but gives you less bulk.
You would use a Single Fold binding for this application, where the edges are pressed in towards the middle but not necessarily all the way into the middle, usually the folded edges create a ¼” Seam Allowance but that is a personal preference.
To work out the width for the binding you will need the total visible width on the posterior side then add on ¼” for turn of the cloth and then add on two Seam Allowances. So ¾”+1/4”+ (2 x ¼”) = 1 ½”.
The binding is pinned anterior sides together with raw edges lined up.
The Binding is stitched in the fold.
Then folded and pressed to the posterior side so that it is out of site.